This seems so wrong but like that 70’s song about conflicting emotions -“(If Loving You Is Wrong) I Don’t Want to Be Right,” the pizza cone is one of those anomalies of Italian cuisine that tastes so good but shouldn’t exist. At least not according to the AVPN, the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. Founded in Naples in 1984 its mission is to promote and protect “true Neapolitan pizza“ which among other things is not shaped like a cone. The ingredients, products, preparation and equipment are all strictly regulated so as to ensure the ancient traditions that distinguish the “original Neapolitan pizza“ are preserved and protected.
Believe it or not the sacrilegious idea of a pizza cone originated in Italy and has mutated to other areas, including Thailand and Bangalore India where it is known as a Conizza. Pillsbury has its own version calling it “portable, personalized pizza in a cone” perfect for tailgating.
Some are calling the pizza cone the best invention ever but in my mind 2 cone forms, 2 stands, 1 dough cutter, 1 crimper with easy to follow instructions or a teflon coated electronic cone maker that makes 500 cones a day does not make a pizza. Nor can it replace the artisan hands of the pizzaiolo who mixes, makes and bakes the pizza in the warm glow of a wood-fired brick oven. Flames dancing across the bubbling dough suddenly create a dark char on the crust, thin in the middle, crisper at the edges to create a slice of Italian gastro-history. A V-shaped slice of perfection that is all about being right.